Best
Day 28: 3 July, refuge Alfred Wills to refuge Alfred Wills
We woke up, the rain was poring down and it was really windy, we stayed in bed for a couple of hours and did some writings and readings. Around nine o’clock we went down to the breakfast room. We had breakfast with David, Jonas and Jack we had met the night before. The rain finally stopped and we decided to continue walking. David joined us.
Looking back at the lovely Refuge Alfred Wills
We started climbing to Lac d’Anterne (2060 m). We saw the lake and we walked along it, there was a lot of snow.
Lac d ’Anterne
After a while we realised we had lost the track, we should have gone on the other side of the lake. Instead of going back we walked around the lake. There were snow all over.
David on his way down
Finally we saw the track, but we decided to continue climbing parallel to the track and to join it further up.
Anna and David reading the map with Lac d’Anterne in behind
Suddenly the fog came, it came from nowhere and in a really short time we didn’t see anything. We were standing on a grass ”island” in the snow waiting for the fog to come down. It only gat worse and it was raining. After a while we heard some people, we started shouting and suddenly Jack and Jonas appeared out of the fog.They where on their way back because of the fog. They led us to the track, which was only a view meters away. We sterted walking back to the refuge together but after a while we met a group of french people, they had gps and were on there way up to Col d’ Anterne.
We all decided to join them. We walked up again but after about 40 minuets we lost the track it was hidden in the snow. The gps didn’t work. Everything was white!
Lost in the mountains
We all walked back to the refuge.
We did 6 hours of hiking without food and a break. We were really tired when we came back to the refuge. We sat down in the warm and nice dining room, talked and relaxed.
David, Jonas, Jack and Anna relaxing in the refuge
In a couple of hours we were served cheese fondue, it tasted good, we were really hungry. After dinner we went to sleep, hoping for a better weather the next day. It was a difficult day, but it was also exciting and we had fun!
Day 30: 5 July, refuge de Moëde Anterne to Chamonix
The sun was shining when we woke up and the sky was blue. We had breakfast at the refuge, bread, jam and Corn Flakes.
The refuge in the morning
We walked down the valley, it was a nice walk, green and beautiful. We walked down to the river, crossed it and continued by climbing on the other side. It was quite easy in the beginning.
Looking back at the refuge from the other side of the valley
After a while it got more snowy and it became hard to stay on the trail, it was hidden in the snow and it became more and more steep. After a steep snowy, climbing we came up to a plateau on the top.
Anna and David walking on the top
We continued in the snow to col du Brévent 2368m. The view was beautiful, we saw Mont Blanc glowing in the sunshine. We continued towards the highest top.
We had to climb on some metal ladders. It was not so difficult. The last part we climbed in the ski slopes to Le Brèvent 2525m. When we’d made it we were hot, tired and very happy! It was a exciting walk and we really enjoyed it.
We made it to the top, Le Brèvent 2525m. Anna, David and Ýrr, happy people posing in front of Mont Blanc
We stayed for a while at the top, took some pictures and looked at the beautiful view.
The view, Mont Blanc
The view
Then we took the cable car down to Chamonix. We had lunch at a restaurant. Davids cousin Rodorigo joined us, he had been waiting for David in Chamonix. After lunch we took farewell of David, his hiking holiday was over for now. We’d really enjoyed his company and we knew we would miss him. We went to the post office to pick up our poste restante package, bought a map for up comings days, went to a sport store and to a grocery store. After running all our errands we went to a camping, made dinner and slept!
Day 42: 17 July, Refuge Plan du Lac to l’Arpont
We took a slow morning, made breakfast outside the refuge and started walking. We continued to walk in the Vanoise national park
After about half an hour we left the track to buy cheese in a farmers house.
5 minuits to buy cheese
Then we started climbing. The sun was shining and we were really hot. We took a break at the end of the climbing and ate bread with cheese and some sausage.
Anna and Ýrr walking and talking
Anna and Christer climbing
Lunch
Then we continued and the landscape changed it became more stony and there was a lot of snow. Also the weather changed, it started raining, we stopped to put on a raincoat (we hadn’t had need for that for more than a week). A fox stopped by and said hi.
We continued and the landscape became more and more beautiful. We walked on striped stones and looked at the glaciers de la Vanoise.
Stripy stoneman
Anna, Christer and Ýrr posing in front of Glacier de la Roche Ferran
It stopped raining for a while and then it started again. We came to refuge de l’Arpont (2309 m) in the afternoon and found out it was full. It was raining quite a lot by now. We decided to make food and then look for a spot to put up our tents. We made couscous with satay sauce and vegetables. We ate and then we left in the rain. We didn’t find a good place for camping, the grass was high and very wet. But we found a chapel, we decided to sleep on the floor. We ate some chocolate before we went to bed.
Day 43: 18 July, l’Arpont to Refuge de plan Sec
The night past well, our temporary home had given us a dry shelter and a good night sleep. Even though Christer wished he had a warmer sleeping bag.
The weather was still a bit unstable.
We packed our things and climbed out. We walked for about half an hour before making breakfast. Other hikers past us. We recognized some of them from the refuge de l’Arpont.
All of us had great energy and where enjoying the walk, mostly through terrace paths, not much climbing and with great views. The whole day was above 2000. The weather made us move fast with just one break to have lunch.
The landscape changed between green and more soft to more stony and rough, Dolomite like.
We arrived early to the Refuge de Plan Sec at 13.00. We had a cold ”shower” and made some lunch in the kitchen, omelet and soup.
We had a nice and relaxed afternoon in front of the warm fireplace in the restaurant, had some wine and wrote on our blog.
At 19.00 it was time for dinner. A couple from Israel joined us, Omri and Orit. We had a nice evening with them talking about hiking, traveling and a lot more.
Finally some dessert! (Creme brûlée on fire!)
Day 75: 25 August, Pontechianale to Lago Fiorenze
I woke up at seven as all other mornings. The sun was shining. It felt nice to pack down and leave the not so nice camping. The track went along side the lake, Lago di Castello.
I reached the little sweet village Castello at the end of the lake. From there I started to climb upwards. I meet many others on the track, mostly day hikers, popular as it is in the area around Monviso with many trails around it. I meet a sweet old couple, that i talked a little bit with, they where going to Rifuge Q. Sella as also was my plan. They had big backpacks, looked heavy and she was wearing a dune jacket the first part, I assume they where carrying a lot of clothes.
I came up to a open flat area. I decided to take break, to eat something and dry the tent.
After an hour I continued, the climb was steep and very stony. I came up to a small lake, it was still very stony and rocky, people had made a habit to play with the stones, it made the place look even more strange. I took some photos with my pinhole camera.
The walk from here to the Passo Gallarina was really nice, almost no green, just stones, very rough.
At the Passo it started to be misty, from a distance I could hear some music, sounded like someone had a party or a big concert. It felt very wired and disturbing. I realized that the sound came from the Rifuge I was heading for. I decided to pass it as it still was early and the place felt very crowded.
The band taking down their gear
It was very misty so I could not see Monviso but it still was a very nice walk. A bit crowded with people from the concert heading down.
I pasted a nice lake and decided to stay the night there. I made some pasta with pesto. Had an early evening as it was a bit cold, but it also started to rain a little bit, there was also some thunder, but further away.
In the middle of the night I woke up and it started to rain more heavily with a strong wind. Thankfully it did not last long. I went outside and made sure the tent was ok, I have used the tent many times before but never in this kind of weather. I adjust some parts, went to bed and went back to sleep.
Trekking in Time
Ystads konstmuseum
3 September – 13 November 2016
Trekking in Time is an international group exhibition that gathers and presents art works by artists that have worked with hiking from different perspectives. It shows works that are both historical and contemporary. It can be works where the artists have used hiking as an action, artistic expression or as a performance.
Participating artists: Marina Abramovic/Ulay, Kerstin Ergenzinger, Hamish Fulton, Gittan Jönsson, Christina Kubisch, Juha Pekka Matias Laakkonen, Richard Long, Tisha Mukarji, Hrafnkell Sigurðsson, Fredrik Strid.
Curators: Yrr Jónasdóttir and Anna Kindvall
Where: Ystad Art Museum, Sweden or visit www.kindvall.net
Image: Hrafnkell Sigur∂sson, Untitled, 2000, photo
HRP – hike plans for 2022
I (Anna) decided a couple of month ago to take up my old plan, a plan I had before the Covid-19 virus came in to our lives, to finally do a longer hike in the Pyrenees. I will be following the trail HRP, which frankly follows the higher parts of the mountain range and the border between France and Spain. I will start at Hendaye by Atlantic sea and walk Banyuls-sur-Mer at the Mediterranean Sea. The trail is about 800 km long and it will take me about 45-50 days for me to complete, The Cicerone guide book, Pyrenean Haute Route by Rom Marten, says about 44 days but that is without any zero days. I do like the idea to have time to take a day of if the weather is really bad as I will be hiking in the higher parts this could be very wise. And as I have the time I don’t mind staying longer in the mountains, enjoying the views, looking at birds and flowers, or eating more mountain cheese. I will start my hike in mid August and walk to the end of September.
I have adjusting my packing list, trying to make it as light as possible. My base weight is at the moment about 6 kg (without consumable and the clothes I will be wearing). Idle weight would be 5 kg. But as I have chosen to bring my iPad for reading and making sketches and my Sony camera this might not be possible for me to archive.
I have dried some of my own food to bring with me and also send to some pickup points. I might post a seperate post regarding this later on. I will also stop at some refuges and villages for dinner and lunch but always nice to bring some of your own food as you will have the freedom to do some wild camping along the way.
Read about the HRP 2022 hike here
Day 1: 12 August: Henday to Col de Lizuniaga
It is a tradition to start with a swim in the Atlatic sea before you begin you hike on the HRP trail in the Pyrenees.
I had a lovely swim about 8 a clock in the morning, quite empty beach, just a few more early birds. When I was ready just all the surfers started to come, I was lucky. I didn’t stay long at the beach, eager to get started.
Before leaving I had some problems getting some money from the cash machine. They where all empty, a helpful lady told me that is often the case. I gave up and turn my back to the ocean and left the village.
During the walk I meet a really nice couple, Keith and Lesley, who also are following HRP, we have since then meet several times.
Later in the day it became very hot, about 35 degree, to hot for walking, I had to move slower and I did take a short cut in the end. I started to get some frictions between my toes, needed to be careful, I probably was to sloppy in rinsing of the sand and salt in between the toes after the swim.
I pitched my tent at a campsite in a green field, crossed the road of a silent restaurant/hostel. There was no facilities accept for some fresh water. I made dinner at the tent, had a chat with Christer at home. The nice couple arrived just after I gone into my tent.
